日本的拉麵有分關東跟關西

2026-01-10

日本拉麵文化中,關東與關西之間的差異,其實不只是口味濃淡的問題,而是深深植根於歷史背景、飲食習慣、水質條件與高湯哲學的整體差別。理解這兩大區域的拉麵風格,也等於看見日本飲食文化中「濃厚派」與「旨味派」的分野。

關東地區的拉麵,最直觀的印象便是湯色較深、味道鮮明而直接。這與關東長期以來偏好使用柴魚片(鰹節)作為高湯核心有很大關係。柴魚本身帶有強烈的煙燻香氣與旨味,搭配濃口醬油後,形成顏色深、鹹香感突出的湯頭風格。這種高湯在入口的瞬間就能給人強烈印象,適合搭配油脂感較重的叉燒、較硬且彈性的麵條,以及大量配料。東京常見的醬油拉麵便是這一系統的代表,而後來在橫濱誕生的家系拉麵,更進一步把豚骨濃湯與濃口醬油結合,將關東「濃厚即正義」的口味推向極致。即使像味噌拉麵這類源自北海道的流派,在關東的演繹中,味道往往也會比其他地區來得厚實有力。

相對之下,關西的拉麵與麵食文化,核心精神更接近「讓高湯說話」。關西地區自古以昆布高湯為飲食基礎,加上水質偏軟,使得湯頭更容易萃取出昆布的甘甜與層次感。關西使用的多為淡口醬油,雖然實際鹽分並不一定較低,但顏色清澈、不搶高湯風采,目的是襯托昆布、魚介本身的鮮味,而非主導整體風味。因此,關西系拉麵或麵食在外觀上往往清亮透明,入口溫和,餘韻悠長,講究的是細水長流的旨味,而不是瞬間的衝擊力。京都風拉麵便是典型例子,常以雞骨或魚介高湯搭配淡雅的醬油調味,整體平衡而內斂。

這樣的差異,也反映在兩地對口感的偏好上。關東料理整體傾向於俐落、硬挺、咬感明確,無論是拉麵麵條、炸物或燉煮料理,都講究一種「爽快感」。關西則偏好柔和與細緻,食材多半追求入口即化或自然回甘,讓味道在口中慢慢展開,而非一次爆發。

若從代表店家來看,關東地區如東京的Homemade Ramen麦苗、らぁ麺や嶋,便是以精準的醬油比例與層次豐富的柴魚系高湯聞名;橫濱的吉村家、武蔵家則象徵家系拉麵的濃厚王道;而札幌的すみれ、彩未,則讓味噌拉麵成為濃郁派系的重要一環。關西方面,京都除了有背脂醬油系的ますたに,也有風格獨樹一幟的天下一品,雖然湯頭濃稠,但底層仍保有關西系高湯的構成邏輯;大阪則以醬油烏龍麵聞名,像今井、道頓堀今井等老店,正是關西高湯文化的縮影;神戶一帶則能看到豚骨醬油與關西口味融合後的拉麵風格,展現區域間的交會與演變。

總體而言,關東拉麵強調的是「好喝、過癮、一喝就懂」,而關西拉麵則追求「耐喝、耐想、越喝越有味道」。兩者並無高下之分,只是各自反映了不同的生活節奏與飲食哲學,也正因如此,日本拉麵世界才能如此豐富而立體。

Kanto-style ramen tends to emphasize soy sauce flavors and darker-colored broths, often built around katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes). The result is a deeper color and a richer, more assertive taste. Kansai-style ramen, by contrast, favors kombu (kelp) as the foundation of its broth. Thanks in part to the region’s softer water, the soup is usually clearer in appearance and lighter on the palate, highlighting the natural umami of the dashi itself. In terms of representative styles, Kanto is known for soy sauce ramen and miso ramen, while Kansai is associated with dishes such as Osaka-style soy-based udon and Kyoto-style ramen, which typically blends clear broth and soy sauce in a restrained, elegant manner. Characteristic shops can be found throughout Japan, including places like Homemade Ramen Muginae in Tokyo and Menya Jouroku in Osaka.

Looking more closely at the differences between Kanto and Kansai ramen, the contrast begins with the dashi. In Kanto, broths commonly use katsuobushi combined with dark soy sauce, producing a deep color and a bold, savory flavor. Kansai broths, on the other hand, rely heavily on kombu, resulting in a clear soup with a gentle sweetness and refined umami. The soy sauce itself also differs: Kanto typically uses dark soy sauce, which has a strong aroma and deeper color, while Kansai favors light soy sauce, which appears paler but actually contains a higher salt content. These preferences reflect broader regional tastes as well. Kanto cuisine often leans toward firmer, crisper textures, whereas Kansai cuisine tends to appreciate softer, more tender foods that melt in the mouth.

 

In terms of representative ramen styles, Kanto is home to classics such as soy sauce ramen, miso ramen, and tonkotsu ramen, including the well-known Iekei style. Kansai, meanwhile, is best known for soy-based udon made with kombu dashi and Kyoto-style ramen that emphasizes balance and subtlety rather than heaviness.

Well-known Kansai ramen shops further illustrate these characteristics. In Kyoto, ramen often combines a light, clear broth with a pronounced soy sauce flavor. Famous examples include Tenkaippin, which is known for its rich taste despite a different broth foundation, and Masutani, a classic back-fat soy sauce ramen shop. In Osaka, soy-based udon is especially famous, with long-established restaurants such as Imai and Dotonbori Imai. In Kobe, tonkotsu soy sauce ramen, including Iekei-style ramen, is also popular, with shops like Menya Saburo gaining a strong following.

Kanto likewise boasts many renowned ramen destinations. In Tokyo, celebrated soy sauce ramen shops include Homemade Ramen Muginae and Ramen-ya Shima. Yokohama is the birthplace of Iekei ramen, with iconic shops such as Yoshimuraya and Musashiya. Sapporo, although geographically in Hokkaido, is closely associated with the Kanto-style ramen discourse due to its influence and is famous for miso ramen, with legendary establishments like Sumire and Saimi.