從路邊攤到近7000家門店，楊國福麻辣燙已經從小吃變成一個全國性餐飲現象，而創始人楊國福親自調配的那碗麻辣湯底更是成為品牌的核心賣點。多年前，張亮麻辣燙從哈爾濱市賓縣起步，利用加盟模式快速擴張，與楊國福麻辣燙齊名，被譽為“麻辣燙雙雄”。

麻辣燙起源於川渝地區，上世紀90年代傳入東北後經過改良，逐漸形成一套“傳幫帶”式的發展模式，成為餐飲行業中重要的細分品類。如今，中國麻辣燙市場規模接近1500億元，雖然市場巨大，但行業仍存在品牌小、集中度低、產品同質化等問題，資本市場對此相對謹慎。三年前，楊國福麻辣燙曾向聯交所發起上市衝刺，欲成為麻辣燙第一股，但至今仍未有新的進展。身處大眾消費市場，麻辣燙的角色相當尷尬：既要面對火鍋、串串、冒菜等“近親”產品的競爭，又時刻面臨食品安全的嚴格監管。即便市場規模達到千億級別，行業參與者也不得不小心應對各種挑戰。

麻辣燙的傳承故事同樣引人入勝。早期，川渝地區的鹽工、船工在勞作之餘，將收集到的食材邊角料串起來，用瓦罐燙煮食用。隨著時間推移，這種吃法逐漸進入街巷餐館，演變為用鐵鍋紅湯烹煮或配上蘸料碟的形式。令人意外的是，如今街頭巷尾遍地開花的麻辣燙，其主流口味並非原汁原味的川味，而是經過改良的東北版，成為市場的中堅力量。

上世紀90年代後期，川味麻辣燙傳入東北，由於製作簡單，成為當地下崗職工再創業的普遍選擇。為了迎合當地人的飲食習慣，東北人對川味麻辣燙進行“大改”，湯底和食材搭配都經過本地化調整，最終形成了具有東北特色的麻辣燙版本，既保留了麻辣的風味，又更符合當地消費者的口味偏好。

整體來看，麻辣燙從小吃到全國性品牌的發展歷程，不僅反映了中國餐飲業的快速成長，也折射出行業在標準化、品牌化和市場競爭中面臨的諸多挑戰與機遇。

From humble street stalls to nearly 7,000 stores nationwide, Yang Guofu mala tang has evolved from a simple snack into a major national culinary phenomenon, with the broth personally crafted by founder Yang Guofu becoming the brand’s signature hallmark. Years ago, Zhang Liang Mala Tang started in Bin County, Harbin, and rapidly expanded through a franchise model. Together with Yang Guofu Mala Tang, the two brands are famously regarded as the “kings of mala tang.”

Mala tang originated in the Sichuan–Chongqing region and was introduced to Northeast China in the 1990s, where it underwent modifications and developed through a mentorship-style (“pass down and teach”) model. It has now become an important sub-sector in the restaurant industry, with a market size approaching 150 billion RMB. Despite the enormous market potential, the industry faces challenges such as small brand sizes, low market concentration, and product homogenization, causing investors to remain cautious. Three years ago, Yang Guofu Mala Tang attempted to go public on the Hong Kong Stock Exchange, aiming to become the first publicly listed mala tang company, but no progress has been reported since. Operating in the mass consumer market, mala tang occupies a delicate position: it faces intense competition from related products like hotpot, chuan chuan, and maocai, while also being under constant scrutiny for food safety. Even with a market worth hundreds of billions, industry participants must carefully navigate these challenges.

The origins of mala tang are equally fascinating. In the early days, salt workers and boatmen in the Sichuan–Chongqing region would gather leftover ingredients and cook them in a clay pot after work. Over time, this method spread to street and neighborhood restaurants, evolving into the modern form of cooking ingredients in iron pots of spicy red broth or serving them with dipping sauces. Interestingly, the most prevalent version of mala tang today is not the original Sichuan style but the adapted Northeast Chinese version, which has become the backbone of the market.

In the late 1990s, Sichuan-style mala tang was brought to Northeast China. Its simple preparation made it a popular entrepreneurial option for laid-off workers. To suit local tastes, the dish underwent extensive modifications, adjusting the broth and ingredient combinations. This resulted in a Northeast-style mala tang that retained the spicy and numbing flavor of the original while better matching local preferences.

Overall, the journey of mala tang from street snack to nationwide brand illustrates not only the rapid growth of China’s restaurant industry but also the challenges and opportunities in standardization, branding, and market competition.